How IP ratings work
Firstly some light reading to understand how we approach IP (Ingress Protection) Ratings. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/IP_Code
If you’d prefer to skip – please focus on the following images for some peace and tranquility before we start getting technical.
We apologise ahead of time due to the nature of IP Ratings and how we are one of the few lighting companies in Australia who know what they are (no kidding!), and have our lighting fixtures tested.
STANDARD LIGHT FITTINGS USING E27 CERAMIC SOCKETS
Our lights are defaulted to IP44 (Minimum) which infers protection against;
IP4X = Most wires, slender screws, large ants.
IPX4 = Water Splashing against the lampholder.
LIGHT FITTINGS W/ OPTIONAL ATOMIC GLASS USING E27 CERAMIC SOCKETS
Our atomic fitted lights default to IP65 (Maximum) where properly sealed with electrician’s/plumber’s silicon compound.
IP6X = Dust Tight; no Ingress of Dust.
IPX5 = Water Jets
LIGHT FITTINGS USING HIGH PERFORMANCE LED INSTALLATIONS
The LMH020 Range of light fittings are IP44 rated and are not designed for areas with water jets as water may pool in areas around the light source (further, can cause water to humidify near the heat-sinks).
The Driver is located behind a specially designed encloser (provided free of charge).
The CXA2520 Range of light fittings are IP55 where properly sealed with electrician’s/plumber’s silicon compound. The driver is hidden within the cap that holds the light source and is 220V input
Just because a fitting is LED, does not mean it is “safer” than 220V systems – Respect the spark.
FURTHER DISCUSSION – WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Do you need it? – If you have lights installed under cover, the requirement for IP ratings is somewhat redundant unless you live on the beach or near flood prone areas. If someone is specifying IP68 – Ask them why you need lighting fixtures to be installed underwater (a common “huh” question) or else if someone is purposely going to stand there and use a pressure water to justify “IP67” in the same instance. You’ll find that *most* of the time, the person specifying has decided for the “best” rather than “whats needed”.
While electrical safety is paramount to any good design, gold plating an immovable object isn’t always required.
The basic construction of our goosenecks, pendants, stems, sconces etc are based around plumbers metal-on-metal threading. We use NPT1/4″ for both our 25mm and 20mm pipes (adapted from 1″ & 3/4″ Pipe).
The most common problem we encounter is the use of “Left-Hand Threads” on the locking coupler which seals the shade using two gaskets, to that of the gooseneck/stem. Because plumbing is designed to be “left-hand thread” for the purpose of safety (so our electrical cannot be connected to air/gas/vent lines) we comply with this standard.
ATOMIC CAST GUARDS & THEIR USAGE
Our Atomic Cast Guard is modeled around VaporProof fittings from the 1980’s, these units include gaskets, silicon tape, grub screws and o-rings to make this unit watertight for external locations. We use NPT (National Pipe Thread/Taper) 1/4″ for threading all of our units, including Goosenecks.
If order to achieve IP55 – You are required to purchase the Atomic Cast Guard as part of the unit (+79ea) which includes Clear or Frosted Glass and Standard Cast Guard or Heavy Duty Cast Guard – Both come with grub screws to ensure the cage is thread-locked but to also ensure that the glass is protected should impact damage occurs.
To order, please select your preferred colour, mounting arm and select the cast guard style preferred. We do not recommend the [WGG] Nautical Wire Guard for your premises near fresh or salt water due to lack of grub screw further the unit is made from Steel with a higher propensity to rust than our [CGG/TGG] die-cast aluminium units.