All Barn Light products are hardy and long-lasting at the best of times. Even our indoor lights continue to shine against all kinds of rough treatment and time.
But to ramp up the durability even further, we can outdoor-proof your lighting fixture to ensure the best Outdoor Rating that Australian lighting can offer. This involves silicone setting and other processes to ensure nothing will get in or corrode.
We could just leave our claim at ‘Weatherproof, vapourproof, dustproof and built to last,’ but we are keen to prove it and are not afraid of getting technical to prove that point, so let’s go that extra step: Here is what the IP code means, and we stand by it.
More than this, and this may shock you, but lights made merely to the CE code may… literally shock you.
The standard that has been used for years, CE, stands for Communauté Européenne, and is applicable in Europe, NOT Australia! It’s a millimetre out in size and is dangerous to use, yet a great number of lighting companies in Australia still use it!
‘Rattle and hum’ might be good in a U2 album, but not what you want in your light socket.
No – we won’t have that. We make sure that it IS suitable for Australia, it DOES fit, and it is SAFE to use as well as long-lasting.
Think we’re overreacting? Well even the EU doesn’t think so:
“Last year the EU banned 41 LED products because of a risk of electric shock or fire, including lamps, torches, light strips and novelty lights. Several more have been taken off the shelves already this year. The vast majority were made in China.”
And that’s in Europe, where the fittings ARE the right size!
Alright, alright, calming down now. Breathe in… and out…
Below is a lot of technical details which you can read if you like, but the upshot is that we insist on the highest AUSTRALIAN rating for all our lights (which is part of why we choose Australian whenever possible), and can recommend a few combinations, like the vapour-proof Atomic Cast Guards that would best suit the conditions around which you will install your lighting.
Or you could skip to the end – there’s a great section of questions from curious customers.
STANDARD LIGHT FITTINGS USING E27 CERAMIC SOCKETS
Our lights are defaulted to IP44 (Minimum) which infers protection against;
IP4X = Most wires, slender screws, large ants.
IPX4 = Water Splashing against the lampholder. (eg. Rain from above, no sprinklers!)
ATOMIC CAST GUARDS & THEIR USAGE
Our “Atomic” fitted lights default to IP55.
Where properly sealed with electrician’s/plumber’s silicon compound – IP56
IP5X = Dust Tight; no Ingress of Dust.
IPX5 = Water Jets (think Garden Hose, not a pressure washer!)
LIGHT FITTINGS W/ OPTIONAL ATOMIC GLASS USING E27 CERAMIC SOCKETS
Our Atomic Cast Guard is modelled around “VaporProof” fittings from the 1980’s, these units include gaskets, silicon tape, grub screws and o-rings to make this unit watertight for external locations. We use NPT (National Pipe Thread/Taper) 1/4″ for threading all of our units, including Goosenecks.
In order to achieve IP55 – You are required to purchase the Atomic Cast Guard as part of the unit (+79ea) which includes Clear or Frosted Glass and Standard Cast Guard or Heavy Duty Cast Guard – Both come with grub screws to ensure the cage is thread-locked but to also ensure that the glass is protected should impact damage occurs.
To order, please select your preferred colour, mounting arm and select the cast guard style preferred. We do not recommend the [WGG] Nautical Wire Guard for your premises near fresh or salt water due to lack of grub screw further the unit is made from Steel with a higher propensity to rust than our [CGG/TGG] die-cast aluminium units.
LIGHT FITTINGS USING HIGH PERFORMANCE LED INSTALLATIONS
The LMH020 Range of light fittings are IP44 rated however are not designed for areas with water jets as water may pool in areas around the light source (further, can cause water to humidify near the heat-sinks). The Driver is located behind a specially designed enclosure (provided free of charge).
The CXA2520 Range of light fittings are IP55 where properly sealed with electrician’s/plumber’s silicon compound. The driver is hidden within the cap that holds the light source and is 220V input
Just because a fitting is LED, does not mean it is “safer” than 220V systems – Respect the spark.
FURTHER DISCUSSION – WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
Do you need it? – If you have lights installed under cover, the requirement for IP ratings is somewhat redundant unless you live on the beach or near flood prone areas.
If someone is specifying IP68 – Ask them why you need lighting fixtures to be installed underwater (a common “huh” question) or else if someone is purposely going to stand there and use a pressure water to justify “IP67” in the same instance.
You’ll find that *most* of the time, the person specifying has decided for the “best” rather than “what’s needed”.
While electrical safety is paramount to any good design, gold plating an immovable object isn’t always required.
The basic construction of our goosenecks, pendants, stems, sconces etc are based around plumbers metal-on-metal threading. We use NPT 1/4″ for both our 25mm and 20mm pipes (adapted from 1″ & 3/4″ Pipe).
The most common problem we encounter is the use of “Left-Hand Threads” on the locking Hex coupler which seals the shade using two gaskets, to that of the gooseneck/stem – Our assembly kits are marked, you/r electrician will see the sticker!
commonly asked questions.
We’re here to help so don’t shy away from asking those “Dumb Questions” that you wish you could research prior to calling – after all that’s how you found this page.
Commonly known questions:
Can I install my Barn Light in my Bathroom, above the shower?
More than likely – Nope! Your electrician has the first and final say on all installations for safety reasons. If your electrician does not approve the installation for safety reasons – that’s the end of it.
Unlike most Lighting companies – We’re on your side – after all we’re professionals. You’ll get a 100% refund from Barn Light upon the safe return of your order. All you are required to do is ask your electrician to contact us (or give us their number) and we’ll investigate their reasoning. Sometimes gaskets and instructions are overlooked so we do our best to ensure we can make your dream a reality.
To give you an idea, here’s a better explanation of distances between water and powerpoints and that doesn’t even cover lighting: https://build.com.au/distance-between-water-and-power-points
Can I install my Barn Lights roughly two meters away from my pool?
The guy who previously bought junk the sparky won’t install.
Like the above query regarding showers – The probability of splashing and water jets in the immediate area is an ongoing concern. That said there is an entire safety standard (AS2560.2.5-2007) that references “Sports Lighting – Specific Applications – Swimming Pools” that is all encompassing. Builders and Electricians are expected to 100% enforce (not just sign a certificate) this standard to ensure safety. Any time a body of water is concerned, the hair on the back of their neck will standard up (seriously: watch!) and as such they’ll risk adverse. Further reading: https://infostore.saiglobal.com/uploadedFiles/Content/Standards/Guide_to_Standards-Pools_and_Spas.pdf